Allow extra to match even stripes or plaids

My last comment about plaid fabrics.

If you are wanting to sew something in plaid, often times there is a dilemma on how much fabric to purchase. If you refer to the back of the pattern envelope for yardage instructions, their comment is to "Allow extra to match even stripes or plaids". But how much extra is extra??

First of all you should check your pattern layout. If your pattern pieces can be cut out side by side, then no extra yardage is required. (Ideally if you are using plaid, pattern pieces should be cut on a single layer of fabric. This ensures you are cutting along the plaid lines.)

If you have pattern pieces that are stacked (see below illustration) then count the number of stacked pieces you have. In the below example, there are 3 pattern pieces, 2 of which are 'stacked'.

Measure the size of the repeat on the fabric. With the mini-Blackwatch plaid (left), the repeat measures 1 1/4". The Dress Steward's (right) repeat is 4 1/4".

To calculate your extra yardage, you will need to multiply the repeat pattern measurement by the number of stacked pattern pieces you have.

Using the mini-Blackwatch for example, the

1 1/4" repeat is multiplied by 2 (to take into account the bodice back piece and the bodice front piece.) You will need to add an additional 2 1/2" to the suggested fabric yardage.

For the Dress Stewart plaid, you would need to add 8 1/2" to the suggested fabric yardage. Obviously, the bigger the repeat, the more fabric you need to add on.

You may feel you are buying alot of excess fabric, but your other alternative is to sew your garment without matching your plaids. Which to most sewers screams "home made"! Mind you, plaid matching is unheard of in ready-to-wear. So, your call.

Hopefully that helps the next time you are looking at buying plaid fabric.